2 new routes in a week (videos)

What a week 🙂

Both me and my climbing partner Joe Heeley have managed to successfully lead our new route projects.
Mine is an E6 6b at Turning stone edge and Joe’s is an E5 6b at Tegness quarries.
We are both buzzing off of this result.

I spotted my line a year or so ago when I was actually working on another route but didn’t think about it much at the time.
The thought of it slowly grew in my mind, as with all routes I get involved with.
Like Inception, the idea planted in your head slowly grows.

This got to a point where I felt compelled to go and check it out which I did with my friend Josh after work. The sequence soon got worked out and finalised and we left knowing that I was able to climb it.

Now after you know its possible and that you are capable of doing it the obsession kicks in, there’s almost nothing else you can think about, for me anyway.
It’s like a constant nagging in the back of your mind (akin to the feeling that you might have left the iron or cooker on or something) I end up day dreaming, running through the sequence of moves over and over again.
Work and weather prevented me from going back for a few weeks which to me was agonisingly annoying.

However luck would have it that both Joe and I had Friday evening free and so we found ourselves at the crag and ready to go.
Practice done, light fading, game on!!!

The thought of the fall I could take if I came off was sitting in the back of my mind, even though in practice I had not fallen off since knowing the sequence but what if …..
It’s not worth thinking about, you would fire off sideways twisting at the same time straight to the floor. (6/7ish metres)
This pic of me in practice shows the swing really well:whogivesafontSuitably psyched and ready to go I got on and didn’t hesitate in the moment, I looked at the move, thought ‘lets have it’ and lept with faith …. literally.
Without further ado, here is a video of me on the first ascent:

A sense of euphoria comes when something you’ve obsessed over is completed.
The nagging feeling subsides and happiness, calm and contentedness take over, it really is an odd thing to try and describe.


Joe’s line at Tegness quarries I think is really cool in my opinion, it’s just a shame that I struggled to do the crux move and so was not in a position where leading would be acceptable.
Joe on the other hand was looking so strong on it he had no choice but to give it a go.

The sequence was unlocked on a quick outing after work but the light faded and annoyingly we had no time for a lead attempt to be made.
Itching to get back we ignored the weather forecast and chose to head out anyway.
Somehow we struck gold and there was no rain at all, everything was bone dry, though there was a feeling of having to be quick as we could see clouds looming in the distance.

A quick practice and he looks at me (I already know what he’s gonna say)
‘I’m ready’ and so the rope comes out, the camera is set up, he takes a deep breath and sets off.
Looking calm he places the gear, a slight pause to visualise the committing sequence and he goes, I watch heart in mouth as he starts, he looks solid but I know how easy a fall would be (a centimetre misplaced and a fall would be unavoidable).
Knowing how fast I would need to react for him to have a chance of not hitting the floor.
Double toe hooks in, higher toe hook placed and boom he powers through the move and grabs the next hold … awesome effort.