For some bizarre reason I always seem to end up at this venue on the back end of a weeks worth of climbing. This venue or venues rather being Blackwell Dale and Stoney Middleton.
Feels silly as to have success on the harder stuff here would require me to be fresh and ready for battle, the style being that you have to pull hard and hold core intensive positions like this one on ‘Titus’ (Font 7c at Stoney)
Even though I played on this at the end of the day I surprisingly made good progress for the first session.
The day started off at Blackwell Dale, a nice little place even if it is situated on the road side.
It was quite pleasant having the place to myself for a few hours. Odd as I’m a people person in general but I quite like the solitude of climbing on my own at times, left to my own thoughts.
My ‘me time’ it can be quite refreshing.
Anyway I digress.
The initial plan was to take a look at ‘Paint it black’ A 7c that is not my style (can’t always stick to what I’m good at) …. Turns out its hard, for me it is anyway.
Even though it’s not what I’m good at I was happy to do most of the moves, just struggled to get the start to work as it has a rather tricky to place heel hook, but oh well, can’t win them all.
After giving this some effort I decided to have a look at two other problems:
‘Red or Dead’ (Font 7b/V8)
‘Fudge’ (Font 7a/V6)
Red or Dead was a nice little problem though I think soft for Font 7B/V8. Took me maybe 15-20 mins to unlock the way to the top, the trick being the heel to hand move.
Fudge I did on my second attempt, I had tried it before at the end of a session last year so had a good idea of what to do already.
For those of you interested here is a video of me climbing the two problems: