2014 Injury’s, Brass monkey’s Font 7c video and new route’s.

Ok so this being my first blog of the year is a bit lame, a poor effort. However I haven’t been very psyched until quite recently.

This was all down to my season/way of life (if you will) coming to an abrupt halt at the end of Jan with an injury along with trying to move house at the same time.
Let’s just say it was a stressful combination of events.

The year started with a new training plan given to me by David Mason, A good coach and appeared to know what I could do better than I did after only about 20 mins of the session. Proving this by getting me to do moves and problems that I previously tied and failed on.
The first few weeks went really well. I even got really close to flashing a few Font 7b’s on the grit, doing them on my second attempt with ease.

On the note of bouldering here is the video of me climbing ‘Brass monkeys’ Font 7c just before Christmas.

Anyway two weeks into training and I’m in the climbing works, surprise surprise. This session is going really well, I have some good friends up for the weekend, Dave Bone and Ginge.
Feeling really strong and I’m on my flash attempt of a relatively hard problem. I’m looking at the last hold, I slap, I slip and I fall ….
No biggie this happens almost every session however … I hit a big hold on the way down, am put out of control and land with my left ankle rolling out from under me accompanied by a very loud snap crack sound …. Shit … that hurts.
The staff where very good bringing ice out and attending to me immediately. I even managed to get a free drink and snack, not all bad then 🙂

Of to the hospital barely able to walk, found out there was no break but I had badly ruptured the ligaments and tendons along with the horrible statment of ‘it will be at least 6 weeks before you will recover’
Nando’s and beer was the agenda that night 😛

Well … a week in and I was bored to death. I couldn’t work for that first week, I couldn’t really walk and I was supposed to be moving house.
You don’t really realise how much of your life is dedicated to pulling yourself up bits of plastic and rock until this sort of thing happens.

Luckily I was able to hobble by the end of the week and along with my mum staying for the weekend we just about moved me out on time. Though it was stressful to say the least.

Anyway 6 weeks of going to the gym with the last 1 – 2 weeks on low level traverses kept me at a base level of fitness.
I’ve still lost a lot of power and strength but nothing compared to what I could have lost.

Being back on the climbing scene … ish saw me and Joe Heeley get out looking at unclimbed rock again.
Was just nice first off being able to climb again on rock though I feel big falls are still a way off.
The fist thing I did was put up an E3 at Gardom’s south ish near the Moorside boulders. Head left towards the woods on your walk in, find the fence, as it goes down in the woods, go over it and you will see it.
Thanks for this route go to Jon Fullwood who tipped me off about this little unclimbed crag he found. He has already done the only other significant line.
I did the far left arête and Jon has done the arête on the right hand prow.
A little video will be up of me and Joe on the first and second ascent.

The next this was a boulder problem that Joe had found. A little roof cave thing just up from Suavito.
I was dubious at first as it didn’t look like much but however I was hugely surprised. You eliminate the side walls and climb the roof on its own.
I haven’t laughed so much on a route in quite a while. Was super fun.
He beat me to the first ascent and named it Crap’alackin with a grade of Font 7a+. Here is a pic of the man in action:

And a pic of me on the second ascent:
Kyle on Crap'alackin

Well that is pretty much it for now, A few things in the pipeline but I will talk about them when there is some news to report.

Of to the climbing works for me.