What a year and what a great start to the season for grit stone, last great lines having been completed and various climbers hitting as high as the E9 range.
It’s been a few weeks since I have blogged, mainly due to being away for Christmas. I had a lovely time as it is not often that I get to see all members of my family under one roof.
The usual merriment took place, wine, feast, mince pies, Christmas pudding …. the lot and oh how fat I felt after it was all over. But it was well worth it 🙂
Pre Christmas saw me top out on a boulder called ‘Brass monkeys’ a Font 7c at the Plantation part of Stanage edge.
This was a relief as it had taken me 3/4 sessions to do the thing …. ‘frustrating’ as I was falling of the same move and being able to climb the move in isolation from the first session.
Conditions played their part on the day, cool but not freezing with a nice breeze.
The actual day felt odd as me and my friend Joe Heeley turned up to see some friends on it. First up when we arrived was Drew who successfully climbed it, then Joe decided to give it a go (no warm up) and walked up the thing, this left me thinking ‘crap, he just did it easy with no warm up today’ (he had done a session on it with me before where we both floundered and couldn’t touch the crux swing out move)
Reluctantly I gave it a go to, having also done no warm up.
Surprisingly I did the swing and found it easy to hold, clamped the feet up and did the move to the lip of the overhang with ease ‘what a shock’ I even paused at this point expecting something to pop (which you will see in the video) but it didn’t and there I was on the finishing slab. Project in the bag 🙂
I’ll post a video of it up soon.
This year was a successful one as it saw put up 5 first ascents on Trad which are:
‘The Kraken’ E6 6c / Font 7b+ – Birchen edge
‘Geckomania’ E6 6b / Font 7a/+ – Curbar edge
‘A Clash of Kings’ E6 6a/b – Turning stone edge
‘Credit crunch’ E5 6b – Upper Matlock quarries – Credit quarry
‘General Lee’ E5 6b – Chatsworth – Dukes seat buttress
I also managed a long term goal of mine which was to onsight an E5 which I managed to do in September.
The route was ‘Ai no corrida’ E5 6b at Burbage North.
This turned out to be a matter of confidence as I had tried a few different routes before, ended up top roping them and finding them easy.
It was just a matter of ‘man up and give it a go’
A highlight in my climbing career and not a day I will forget. Especially as the day before I had tried to high ball ‘Nefertiti’ an E6 at Burbage north the day before, being unsuccessful and limping away.
I have a few aims and projects for the 2014, one which I am close to but need to latch one move then can try for a link up. I shan’t be divulging any info about what or where it is but ill post up any success should I have any.
The others would be to get Font 8a, French 8a and E7/8. A big aim but I like to aim big as it gives me motivation to train hard.
Anyway hope everyone has a good new years eve and your hangovers tomorrow are not too bad.