Who in their right mind would climb grit stone in this heat!???? … well …. as it turns out I’m not in my right mind 😛
A friend of mine ‘Anna Clark’ called me up the other day letting me know that she has seen an unclimbed line on the grit and sent me a picture of it, naturally I got excited about the prospect of another route as even in a photo from a phone it looked rather cool. We met up I think two days later to go for a walk so she and her partner Ollie Hoffman could show me the crag. When we arrived I was pleased to find an awesome prow / arête. It looked cool, a nice blunt arête start with sloper’s into a fridge hugging section and to finish, it all ends up on a knife edge arête again with gear below half height.
Super psyched at the look of this route I went out the next chance I got to look at, clean and work out a sequence to the route. The abseil down it is very bizarre. Due to it being a knife edge arête sticking out quite far the only thing I could do was to hang a rope either side of it to sort of baby hanger myself in so as not to take a massive swing and fall … it’ll be interesting when I start working the top section 😛 I think it’ll be easy for the rope to pop round the arête and give me a rather annoying thump/fall into the wall behind it.
So far the lower arête and the fridge hug section are all sorted (around English tech 6b) and I think the top half is going to be harder but I haven’t been able to work it out yet so we will see. At the moment I’m guessing around E5 but if the top section proves just as hard or harder it’ll sit in the E6 range again. I’m looking forward to see how it pans out.
What more 🙂 There is more potential, right next to it there is a slab that will be in the low E’s as well along with a few boulders to play on. Not much but a few things to play on and add to this crag to develop it a bit. Should provide some fun times and occupy me for the a few weeks 🙂