Back from Cornwall

Well that went alot faster than I wanted it to 😦 back already and working dammit.

On the other hand I had a very successful trip.
My aim was to climb a route called ‘Windows of perfection’ which goes at E5 6b at a place called ‘Sennen cove’.

The original thought was that I was going to try and on-sight it but alas my fear got the best of me and I opted to have a quick inspection on top rope. This proved a little annoying as I flashed it and found out that there was good gear. But weather or not I would have committed to the top crux which was a full span from a left hand crimp to a two finger nubbin on the on-sight I don’t know.
Either way once I knew the moves I was confident that falling wasn’t going to happen and I tied my nervous girlfriend (Lauren) to the belay (so that if in the event of a fall from the first crux I wouldn’t pull us both of the cliff) ‘are you sure you want to do this’ she asked.
‘Ha of course I do 🙂 this is what I came here for’

So I set off, feeling strong and climbed well with no mistakes until the top crux where I placed my feet wrong and almost didn’t make the lock off span that I explained earlier. A little Sharma shout and the extra few inches of reach came.
A quick wohoo as I grabbed the top finishing jugs and it was in the bag. I came down pleased with the outcome 🙂

The heat over the week was amazing, it was like being in Italy again. My whole family ended up being sunburnt lol.

The first day that we where there I took Lauren up the classic ‘Commando ridge’ it’s easy climbing so you can relax although it is rather long and will take a few hours. With a good ledge about half way up where you can stop for some grub if you bought it with you (we did) and enjoy the view.
If anyone goes to Cornwall I would highly suggest doing this route. This was the third time I’ve climbed it and it was still just as enjoyable as the first time.

A beach day was to follow, some nice catch up time with the family.
Definitely didn’t end up bouldering on some of the higher rocky outcrops 😛
But still playing with poys (little weighted balls with ribbons), doing some gymnastics and general larking around on the beach was a good change.

I then took my sister Emily and her friend Brogan to Sennen Cove and took them up some nice little routes and taught them how to abseil. They both did very well, especially her friend who had never done any climbing or abseiling before (my sister naturally has been dragged up and thrown down various routes before lol)

The final day started with a few warm up routes, and Lauren doing her second ever lead up ‘Banana flake’ a Sennen classic and a must do for any climber who visit’s this area.
She did very well, with perfect gear placement and a good belay set up at the top.
I’ll make a Trad climber out of her yet 🙂 (she loves her bouldering)
After this was the completion of the E5 I had set out to do and us speeding to get back to the camp-site as we had said we would go out for dinner with my brother Arron and his girlfriend Claire.
The meal was very nice, set in an old medieval setting, the staff all dressed up and the lighting dimmed and flickering as if it was all candle lit.
I loved the place and tried my first honeyed mead. I’ve only read about mead in stories so it was nice to drink it in this old England setting.

So all in all a good trip and I look forward to going back there and going away again.

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Off to Cornwall

Aside

Oh … my … god … I hate packing. Really does my head in though probably because I’m rather disorganised (organised chaos I call it) and it looks like a complete mess until the last minute.

The aftermath of what follows is what I love though 🙂
Not the mind-numbing trip down the motorway but the feeling when you get to your destination and you know some cool days are to follow. This time I’m going to Cornwall. A place I go to climb almost every year where places like Sennan cove and Bosigran feel a little like old friends.

I have a few routes I would like to throw myself at and see what happens. I feel strong at the moment after all the bouldering that I’ve done but endurance wise 🙂 not so much so it will be interesting to see if my strength is enough to compensate for the lack of endurance … either way it should be good fun.

This time I will have Lauren with me. It will be nice introducing her to these wonderful places and I hope that she will end up liking them as much as I do so we shall see, I’ll try not to scare her …. too much 😛

I’m also looking forward to seeing my brother, I havnt seen him much recently. He lives in Cornwall and I live in Sheffield. A fair distance between us.
Will be good to see the life he has set himself down there and to have a good catch up.

Anyway, enough putting off the packing, it has to be done.

New route play

Who in their right mind would climb grit stone in this heat!???? … well …. as it turns out I’m not in my right mind 😛

A friend of mine ‘Anna Clark’ called me up the other day letting me know that she has seen an unclimbed line on the grit and sent me a picture of it, naturally I got excited about the prospect of another route as even in a photo from a phone it looked rather cool.                                                                                                                                                                 We met up I think two days later to go for a walk so she and her partner Ollie Hoffman could show me the crag.                                                                                                   When we arrived I was pleased to find an awesome prow / arête. It looked cool, a nice blunt arête start with sloper’s into a fridge hugging section and to finish, it all ends up on a knife edge arête again with gear below half height.

Super psyched at the look of this route I went out the next chance I got to look at, clean and work out a sequence to the route.                                                                               The abseil down it is very bizarre. Due to it being a knife edge arête sticking out quite far the only thing I could do was to hang a rope either side of it to sort of baby hanger myself in so as not to take a massive swing and fall … it’ll be interesting when I start working the top section 😛 I think it’ll be easy for the rope to pop round the arête and give me a rather annoying thump/fall into the wall behind it.

So far the lower arête and the fridge hug section are all sorted (around English tech 6b) and I think the top half is going to be harder but I haven’t been able to work it out yet so we will see.                                                                                                                                     At the moment I’m guessing around E5 but if the top section proves just as hard or harder it’ll sit in the E6 range again. I’m looking forward to see how it pans out.

What more 🙂 There is more potential, right next to it there is a slab that will be in the low E’s as well along with a few boulders to play on.                                                                     Not much but a few things to play on and add to this crag to develop it a bit. Should provide some fun times and occupy me for the a few weeks 🙂