With the weather having turned glorious I have had a rather good time over the last month or so.
The most notable of what I have done is my first ascent of an E6 6a/b which I named ‘A Clash of Kings’ at Turning stone edge and the second ascent of Tom Randall’s new E6 6a ‘Porridge egg’ at Gardoms.
This started with Tom asking me if I wanted to go to Gardom’s with him to check out some unclimbed lines.
Naturally I said yes which ended up with us going out the next day standing at the bottom of the E6 line, a nice arete just left of ‘Gom’jabbar’.
After a quick top rope to clean the holds and know the moves it was game on:
Tom went first, climbed flawlessly to claim his new route to which I though ‘damn, now I have to man up’ luckily the moves are not hard, about V3 bouldering wise but with the hardest move right at the top on two sketchy smears with the threat of a 17ish metre fall if you where to skit off.
So I went, started really well until the last move where I placed my feet wrong and couldn’t reach the last hold (oh dear, heart in mouth …. do, not, fall) a quick sketch of the left foot to where it was supposed to be and victory was in the bag 🙂
My second E6 done.
We went and did a quick top rope of his new E8 called Nah’han just to the right, this is very hard sustained climbing with possibly some of the nicest moves on grit that I have climbed so far.
Big well done to Tom for having led this only a few days later which I am sure most of you climbing bums will have already seen on ukclimbing.
Well, this all left me full of psych and an uncontrollable urge to get a hard new route of my own, I had my nose in my guide books for ages and found the perfect candidate.
A lovely jutting, overhanging prow at ‘Turning stone edge’
The route to the left ‘tree dimensional’ mentioned this route as ‘the impressive prow on the right is unclimbed’
I searched on the internet and found no mention of it having been done either …. Great 🙂
So I went and looked at it, why oh why hasn’t this been done, its a wonderful line.
I abseiled down, got a sequence, cleared a lot of rhododendrons off of it and the line was ready.
Having done this clean on top rope I was excited and called Tom on the wednesday to see if he was interested in coming to hold a rope for me.
As it turned out he had a project there to do as well so we both ended up on out prospective projects the next saterday. Tom dispatched his quickly having taken one fall on his first attempt to put up another E6 and then it was my turn.
A quick top rope to remember the sequence and it was time to go.
A photographer called ‘Alex Ekins’ came with us to take pictures of us on our new lines. This was a new experience for me having a professional photographer hanging on the cliff on the next route along.
I had no choice, standing there nervous, my third E6 if im successful, a new route, an independent line in its own right, I imagine myself at the top oh how I would love that.
Alex is waiting, I cant make him hang there all day.
So I step off the ledge and go (the click click click of the camera starts) … this is strange … where has my fear and anxiety gone … its just gone … this is fun.
My focus and determination was as it had never been before, such a strong drive and want for this to go well. Especially as failure means getting hurt. With gear at 1/3 height the crux at 2/3 height with interesting moves to keep you on your toes till you finish.
In practice I had felt tired after the crux and this time nothing, I just felt good, a quick chalk and think to make sure I don’t make a mistake and found myself rocking onto the final move and standing at the top, my emotion surges, the feeling was amazing, a new route, an E6 and I smile to myself as I untie.
A handshake from Tom and Alex as I came to meet them at the bottom of the route and as all good climbing days should end in the peak district we ended up at outside for a cup of tea and chips.
And most importantly to claim our new routes in the new route book.
Without a doubt one of my favourite days out climbing that I have had.
I’ll post these pictures up when I get them but they have been sent off to the magazines to see if they want to publish them, when I find out what is going on ill let everyone know and post them on here when I can.
Here are some pics of the route though they are not very good quality:
|A Clash of Kings ‘E6 6a/b’|
|A Clash of King ‘E6 6a/b’
Showing the steepness