A Clash of Kings E6 6a/b

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A Clash of Kings E6 6a/b

Me on the first ascent of ‘A Clash of Kings’ E6 6a/b

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Aside

Things recently have been a bit hectic as I have been settling into a new job over the last few months. I wont go into it as its not that interesting, but basically a catch up for what I have been up to in the last few months.

With the new job I have not had much time to get out searching for new routes and stuff but I have managed to pop out a few times with a few friends getting up to some weird and wacky stuff.

One of the funnest ones was going out with my buddy Matt Curran up to Stanage to attempt a high line. (A slack line set on a gap between a cliff)
This was actually a lot harder than we though as we have got pretty consistent at walking the line low down.
As soon as you start its really nerve racking and we ended up jumping off the cliff to practice what the falls would be like which was fun enough as it is.
We plan to go back and try again with a little less fear of the thing ūüôā

I met up with one of my friends Danny and took a venture to find ‘Anston stones’. This is a nice area which unlike most of the other limestone crags that I have seen in the Sheffield area actually remains rather unpolished.
We played on a few problems the first of which was ‘Colt’ (Font 7a+) a nice little problem with some blind moves which are easy when you hit them but hard if you don’t lol but however DO NOT estimate the finishing mantle ūüėČ I felt like a beginner all over again as I made a totally un glorious beach whale, face scrubbing grovel to top out. Was a rather funny sight as I could hear Danny laughing at me.
The second problem was called ‘Fine art’ (Font 7a+)
A rather deceiving problem that looks a lot easier than it really is. A few frustrating falls led to me working out a good bit of beta and finding myself at the top of the problem. This is a lovely boulder problem and I highly recommend going to climb it.
I then went on to look at the problem called ‘Bullet’ (Font 7c) ….. is basically a 4 move wonder, and I could only do two of them (the easy ones) and got spanked on the hard bit ūüė¶

Archie then came to visit a few weeks later, we went back and I was happy to latch the crux hold but fell off the final horizontal dyno to a jug …. frustrating, no tick happened for me on this day but knowing that I can do it has got me looking forward to going back.
We both then ventured to look at a crag called ‘Rubicon’ a beautiful area and well worth a visit though VERY polished.
Either way we warmed up and both flashed a font 7a there and Archie went and on-sighted the sport route ‘Rubicon’ F7a.
A good effort and a nice route, so I thought I would give it a go and found out that I need to work on my endurance as I found all the moves easy but was tired after about 7 moves (boulderers syndrome)
So one to go back for as it is an awesome line.

Basically been training and maintaining being strong ready for when a project comes up to blast some endurance out for it.

Which as it happens I have found one ūüôā more on my next post about it along with the pictures of my last new route (A Clash of Kings E6 6a/b) at Turning stone edge.

Thanks for reading guys,
Ill post again tonight or tomorrow for the new route update.

New E6 ‘A Clash of Kings’

With the weather having turned glorious I have had a rather good time over the last month or so.

 
The most notable of what I have done is my first ascent of an E6 6a/b which I named ‘A Clash of Kings’ at Turning stone edge and the second ascent of Tom Randall’s new E6 6a ‘Porridge egg’ at Gardoms.
 
This started with Tom asking me if I wanted to go to Gardom’s with him to check out some unclimbed lines.
Naturally I said yes which ended up with us going out the next day standing at the bottom of the E6 line, a nice arete just left of ‘Gom’jabbar’.
After a quick top rope to clean the holds and know the moves it was game on:
Tom went first, climbed flawlessly to claim his new route to which I though ‘damn, now I have to man up’ luckily the moves are not hard, about V3 bouldering wise but with the hardest move right at the top on two sketchy smears with the threat of a 17ish metre fall if you where to skit off.¬†
So I went, started really well until the last move where I placed my feet wrong and couldn’t reach the last hold (oh dear, heart in mouth …. do, not, fall) a quick sketch of the left foot to where it was supposed to be and victory was in the bag ūüôā
My second E6 done.
 
We went and did a quick top rope of his new E8 called Nah’han just to the right, this is very hard sustained climbing with possibly some of the nicest moves on grit that I have climbed so far.¬†
Big well done to Tom for having led this only a few days later which I am sure most of you climbing bums will have already seen on ukclimbing.
 
Well, this all left me full of psych and an uncontrollable urge to get a  hard new route of my own, I had my nose in my guide books for ages and found the perfect candidate. 
A lovely jutting, overhanging prow at ‘Turning stone edge’¬†
The route to the left ‘tree dimensional’ mentioned this route as ‘the impressive prow on the right is unclimbed’¬†
I searched on the internet and found no mention of it having been done either …. Great ūüôā
 
So I went and looked at it, why oh why¬†hasn’t¬†this been done, its a wonderful line.¬†
I abseiled down, got a sequence, cleared a lot of rhododendrons off of it and the line was ready.
Having done this clean on top rope I was excited and called Tom on the wednesday to see if he was interested in coming to hold a rope for me. 
As it turned out he had a project there to do as well so we both ended up on out prospective projects the next saterday. Tom dispatched his quickly having taken one fall on his first attempt to put up another E6 and then it was my turn. 
A quick top rope to remember the sequence and it was time to go. 
 
A photographer called ‘Alex Ekins’ came with us to take pictures of us on our new lines. This was a new experience for me having a¬†professional photographer hanging on the cliff on the next route along.¬†
I had no choice, standing there nervous, my third E6 if im successful, a new route, an independent line in its own right, I imagine myself at the top oh how I would love that. 
Alex is waiting, I cant make him hang there all day.
 
So I step off the ledge and go (the click click click of the camera starts) … this is strange … where has my fear and anxiety gone … its just gone … this is fun.
My focus and determination was as it had never been before, such a strong drive and want for this to go well. Especially as failure means getting hurt. With gear at 1/3 height the crux at 2/3 height with interesting moves to keep you on your toes till you finish. 
In practice I had felt tired after the crux and this time nothing, I just felt good, a quick chalk and think to make sure I¬†don’t¬† make a mistake and found myself rocking onto the final move and standing at the top, my emotion surges, the feeling was amazing, a new route, an E6 and I smile to myself as I untie.¬†
 
A handshake from Tom and Alex as I came to meet them at the bottom of the route and as all good climbing days should end in the peak district we ended up at outside for a cup of tea and chips.
And most importantly to claim our new routes in the new route book. 
 
Without a doubt one of my favourite days out climbing that I have had.
 
I’ll post these pictures up when I get them but they have been sent off to the magazines to see if they want to publish them, when I find out¬†what is¬†going on ill let everyone know and post them on here when I can.¬†
 
Here are some pics of the route though they are not very good quality:
 
A Clash of Kings ‘E6 6a/b’

 

 
 
 
A Clash of King ‘E6 6a/b’
Showing the steepness

Happy new year all

Happy belated New Year all,

I hope everyone had an awesome¬†night and that everyone’s hangover was not as awesome as the one¬†I had for the following two days ūüė¶

Well 2012 was an amazing year for me. My highlights being: 

  • Finished 5th in SIBL (southern indoor bouldering league)
  • Moved to Sheffield in April
  • Got sponsored by Hseven in April
  • Putting up my first new route at Gardoms, Peak District¬†‘Midgey meal’ E3 5c
  • Adding a possible 7a extension start to ‘Razor roof’ at Robin hood stride (a bit contrived but fun none the less)¬†
  • Achieved¬†a personal best in sport climbing, 7c ‘Jam or jump’ in Sicily.
  • Achieved¬†a personal best in bouldering, 7c ‘The Terrace’ at Burbage, Peak District

Unfortunately I did not get a personal best in Trad climbing but got pretty close. 
I fell off ‘Kaluza klein’ E7 6b looking at the last hold, so hopefully I will complete it soon.
When I complete it I will post up a video of the falls and ascent, including the video where my rope gets completely de-sheathed which was a bit worrying. 

In December I found a highball Font 7a+ ‘help the young’ at Stanage¬†which if done without pads, goes at E5 6c.¬†
I had first climbed it with a pad but then decided to take the pads away to do it as the E5, this was an exiting experience as the moves are easy to drop and you end up pretty high off the floor hence being a highball problem.

2013

2013 has started of good one I managed to get back to the peaks (head gasket blew on my van)
I¬†wasn’t¬†expecting much having had nearly a month off but none the less actually started off really well.

I found myself topping out on the classic boulder problem ‘Brad Pit’ Font 7c/+. This I was not expecting as it was my second go of the 3rd session and I was still cold.

Trad season has started well with my first weekend this season being last weekend with an¬†on-sight¬†of ‘Crystal tips’ E3 6a and ‘Now or never’ E1 5b.
So looking forward to another good year.